Dermalogica Founder: Building A Billion Dollar Business While Looking After Your Mental Health

Jun 13, 2022
Overview

Jane Wurwand, co-founder of Dermalogica and the International Dermal Institute, shares insights on building a multi-million-dollar business, the power of community, decisive leadership, and personal growth. She emphasizes the importance of self-reliance, attention to detail, and integrating work into a "big messy life."

At a Glance
17 Insights
1h 25m Duration
15 Topics
6 Concepts

Deep Dive Analysis

Work-Life Integration: The 'Big Messy Life' Philosophy

Childhood Influences: Loss, Mother's Resilience, Skill-Building

Early Independence: South Africa, Marriage, and Self-Reliance

Meeting Raymond and Strategic Move to Los Angeles

Founding International Dermal Institute: Bridging Training Gaps

Building a 'Tribe': Community as a Business Foundation

Leadership Principles: Empathy, Detail, and Decisiveness

Disruptive Branding: Dermalogica's 'Piss Off 80%' Approach

Overcoming Industry Resistance and Redefining Skincare

The Personal Cost of Entrepreneurial Dedication

Relationship Dynamics: Communication and Conflict Resolution

Therapy Journey: Unpacking Trauma, Insomnia, and Self-Acceptance

Strategic Acquisition of Dermalogica and Legacy Planning

Wealth, Purpose, and Raising Resilient Children

Final Reflection: A Journey to Authentic Self-Love

Work-Life Integration

Jane Wurwand believes there is no work-life balance, but rather 'one big messy life' where work and personal life are integrated. She suggests that those who seek balance often dislike one of the two parts of their life.

Community Building in Business

This strategy involves fostering a sense of belonging and connection among customers or employees, particularly in isolated professions. It was central to the International Dermal Institute's success, creating a 'tribe' that felt like family.

The 70% Rule for Decision Making

This principle advises making a decision when approximately 70% of the necessary information is available, rather than waiting for 100%. The rationale is that situations evolve, and leadership requires immediate decisiveness.

Branding Philosophy (Piss off 80% to please 20%)

This marketing approach, suggested by Raymond Wurwand, advocates for a brand to take a strong, distinctive stance, even if it alienates a majority. The goal is to deeply resonate with a dedicated segment, creating a definable brand with a voice and personality.

Entrepreneur vs. Intrapreneur

An entrepreneur takes personal risks and uses their own resources ('chips') to build a business from the ground up. An intrapreneur, conversely, applies entrepreneurial thinking and innovation within an existing company, using its resources.

Weakness as Strength

This concept suggests that a perceived weakness, such as impatience, can also be a strength. Impatience can drive a fast pace, quick ideas, rapid execution, and a sense of urgency and leadership, depending on how it is managed.

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What was Jane Wurwand's mother's most formative advice?

Her mother instilled the importance of learning a skill set to be self-sufficient and never putting one's future in the hands of someone else's income or success, especially after her father's unexpected death.

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Why did Jane Wurwand choose not to go to university?

She wanted to be self-determined quickly and felt university's long-haul education wouldn't equip her fast enough with a portable, hands-on skill that she could travel and work with immediately.

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How did Jane Wurwand emigrate to South Africa?

She and her then-boyfriend applied for assisted passage offered by the South African government, which paid for their travel if they filled a needed job role, such as a beauty therapist.

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How did Jane Wurwand get a work permit to move to Los Angeles?

She and Raymond started a company in the US, then she set up a corresponding company in South Africa to facilitate an intercompany transfer visa, which was a legal loophole at the time.

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What was the key to the International Dermal Institute's early success?

They focused on building a strong community among isolated skin therapists through various events like guest speaker evenings and power breakfasts, creating a sense of belonging and a 'tribe'.

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How does Jane Wurwand handle her impatience as a leader?

She acknowledges it as both a weakness (leading to anger or carelessness when tired) and a strength (driving fast pace and decisive action), relying on 'truth-tellers' like her husband to keep her in check.

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What is Jane Wurwand's philosophy on making business decisions?

She advocates for the '70% rule,' making decisions when 70% of the information is available, as waiting for 100% means the situation will have already changed and leadership requires immediate decisiveness.

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Why did Dermalogica's branding aim to 'piss off 80% to please 20%'?

This philosophy, suggested by Raymond, aimed to create a distinct brand voice and personality that would trigger strong emotional responses and avoid being mediocre or undefinable by trying to please everyone.

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What was the main resistance Dermalogica faced upon launch?

The industry pushed back against their 'hybrid' cosmetic/pharmaceutical approach, their 'ugly' packaging (no pink jars with gold lids), and their stance that skincare was a necessity for all genders, not a luxury.

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What was the greatest cost of Jane Wurwand's intense work ethic in the early years?

The greatest cost was friendships, as she and Raymond were often unavailable for social activities due to their demanding work schedule, though their closest friends understood and remained.

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Why did Jane Wurwand decide to go to therapy later in life?

A traumatic mudslide that destroyed her home triggered severe insomnia, which her doctor identified as an anxiety problem, prompting her to unpack lifelong losses and patterns, starting from her father's death.

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What is Jane Wurwand's view on wealth and her children?

She worries about her children losing their tenacity and hunger due to inherited wealth, emphasizing that wealth is a burden if not used to benefit others and foster a sense of gratitude.

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How does Jane Wurwand define courage and bravery for entrepreneurs?

She states that courage and bravery are not the absence of fear, but rather the presence of fear and still being able to function and make decisions despite it.

1. Learn a Skill for Self-Reliance

Acquire a practical skill set that allows you to be self-sufficient and earn money quickly, ensuring you can support yourself and avoid putting your future solely in the hands of someone else’s income.

2. Build Community for Success

Actively foster a strong sense of community among your customers or team members by creating frequent opportunities for connection, as human connection is a fundamental need that drives loyalty and engagement.

3. Prioritize Decisive Action

Make decisions when you have approximately 70% of the necessary information, as waiting for 100% often means missing the opportune moment; leadership requires timely decisiveness.

4. Embrace Attention to Detail

Recognize that meticulous attention to detail is crucial for effective execution, consistent maintenance, and long-term relevance in business, distinguishing a lasting brand from a fleeting trend.

5. Cultivate Truth-Tellers

Surround yourself with honest individuals who will provide unfiltered feedback and tell you when you are out of line, as they are essential for self-correction and preventing ego from leading to missteps, especially when successful.

6. Dare to Be Disruptive in Branding

Don’t try to please everyone; instead, aim to have a strong, authentic voice and personality that stands for something specific, as this approach triggers emotional responses and defines a brand, even if it alienates some.

7. Integrate Work into Life

Reject the notion of “work-life balance” and instead view work as an integrated part of your “big messy life,” striving to make all aspects happen rather than separating them into competing spheres.

8. Guard Against Business Gravitational Pull

Regularly assess if a perceived business “emergency” is a true crisis or merely an ego-driven rush, and consciously prioritize time for loved ones or personal needs over non-critical work demands.

9. Be Present with Loved Ones

Actively put away distractions like phones when with family or friends, recognizing that moments of genuine connection and presence are paramount and more important than immediate business responses.

10. Address Resentment Immediately

In relationships, confront disagreements directly and work through them until a point of agreement is reached, preventing resentment from festering and harming long-term connection.

11. Seek Therapy to Unpack Trauma

Consider therapy to address persistent emotional burdens or unresolved past losses, as it can help you understand your patterns, reframe experiences, and achieve authentic self-love and healing.

12. Reframe Negative Experiences

Consciously reframe past shames or difficult experiences into sources of pride and gratitude, allowing you to acknowledge their impact without carrying their emotional weight daily.

13. Recognize Wealth’s Responsibility

Understand that significant wealth carries a responsibility to benefit others, both known and unknown, as this sense of purpose can prevent it from becoming a burden and foster gratitude.

14. Know When to Exit a Business

Be able to objectively recognize when your leadership has taken a business as far as it can go, and be prepared to pass the baton through acquisition or other means for its continued growth and evolution.

15. Embrace Impatience as a Strength

Acknowledge impatience as a dual-edged sword; while it can lead to anger, it also drives rapid execution and urgency, so learn to harness its positive aspects while managing its negatives.

16. Stay Accessible to All Staff

As a leader, remain accessible to all employees, including support staff, by sharing common spaces and demonstrating that everyone is “in this together” to foster a collaborative and inclusive culture.

17. Commit to Never Be Vulnerable

After a significant personal setback, make a firm commitment to yourself to never again allow yourself to be in such a vulnerable position, driving a strong resolve for independence and self-protection.

You know people who say how do you balance your life and your work? I know that they hate one of those two parts in their own life. There is no work-life balance.

Jane Wurwand

Lots of people have great ideas every day. The difference? Most people can't execute because the details are really important and most people miss them or start to think they're petty.

Jane Wurwand

We can't be afraid that some people won't like what we say. We have to say it.

Jane Wurwand

Human connection is the deepest form of unconditional love.

Jane Wurwand

Courage, bravery is not the absence of fear. It's the presence of fear and still being able to function.

Jane Wurwand

We have to be prepared to piss off 80% or we'll never turn on 20%. We'll be middle of the road, mediocre, average, palatable, but not definable. That's a product. That's not a brand.

Jane Wurwand

A brand has a voice. A brand has personality. A brand triggers emotional responses.

Jane Wurwand

You've got to know when to leave the party.

Jane Wurwand

Wealth is a burden if you don't figure out how it can benefit others and give you some sense of gratitude at having it.

Jane Wurwand
1983
Year International Dermal Institute started Still the number one training program in the industry.
January 1986
Year Dermalogica launched Generated hundreds of millions of dollars a year.
2 and three quarters years old
Jane Wurwand's age when father died Father died suddenly of a heart attack.
38
Mother's age when father died With four children, she had not worked since marriage.
50
Father's age when he died Died suddenly of a heart attack.
1945
Mother's last year of work before marriage Due to UK law requiring married women to give up jobs to single women.
13
Jane Wurwand's age when she got her first Saturday job Working in a salon.
19
Jane Wurwand's age when she emigrated to South Africa With her then-boyfriend via assisted passage.
106 degrees
Temperature in Johannesburg (1977) Fahrenheit, before Celsius conversion.
40 pounds
Cost of assisted passage to South Africa For emigration from the UK.
3 years
Years separated required for divorce in South Africa (then) Under Dutch reform church law.
7 of 50 states
Number of US states with a skincare license (then) California was one of them.
$300
Cost to start a company in Sacramento (then) To facilitate an intercompany transfer visa for Jane.
600 hours
California state board license hours for skincare Equivalent to about four months of training.
$75 per day
Daily class fee at International Dermal Institute (initially) Quickly increased to $100 per day.
2,000
Number of skin therapists in California (then) In the entire state.
Over 100,000
Number of skin therapists trained annually by IDI Globally, still the number one advanced training program.
2015
Year Dermalogica was acquired by Unilever After being self-funded and highly profitable.
36
Jane Wurwand's age when she had her first child Put off having children due to intense work and travel.
41 nights
Nights of severe insomnia With less than 4 hours of sleep per night, triggered by anxiety after losing her home.
3 months
Waitlist for sleep clinic at UCLA Prompted her to seek psychiatric help instead.
63
Jane Wurwand's current age Will be 64 next Saturday at the time of recording.
23 and 28
Daughters' ages At the time of recording.
18 years
Years lived in house before acquisition The Santa Barbara house destroyed by a mudslide.