Santorini Wine with Panayiota Kalogeropoulou
Shane Parrish interviews Panayiota Kalogeropoulou, Director at Domaine Sigalas vineyard, about Santorini's unique wines. They discuss the island's 3,000-year continuous winemaking history, the distinct Assyrtiko grape, and the traditional Nikteri wine production.
Deep Dive Analysis
13 Topic Outline
Santorini's Ancient History and Volcanic Impact
The Continuous History of Santorini's Vineyards
Indigenous Grape Varieties of Santorini
Traditional Production of Nikteri Wine
The Unique Characteristics of Santorini Wines
Winemaking Process from Harvest to Bottling
The Story Behind Domaine Sigalas's Cavaleros Wine
Fragile Stages and Quality Focus in Winemaking
Winery Production Volume and Export Markets
Experimentation with Red Grape Varieties: Mavro-Tragano
Sustainable and Organic Vineyard Practices
The Experience of Visiting Domaine Sigalas
Encouraging Exploration of Santorini's Wine Region
4 Key Concepts
Phylloxera Resistance
Santorini's vineyards are naturally resistant to phylloxera, a destructive grape louse, because the volcanic soil contains a high content of sand, which is an unfriendly environment for the pest.
Nikteri Wine
Nikteri is a traditional late harvest wine from Santorini, typically made from 100% Assyrtiko grapes. The grapes remain on the vine longer to concentrate sugars, resulting in higher alcohol content and residual sugar, and it was historically aged in old oak barrels, sometimes developing a protective 'floor' appearance similar to sherry.
Assyrtiko Grape Characteristics
Assyrtiko is a unique grape variety from Santorini known for its extreme flavors and high potential for various wine styles. Despite growing in a hot climate, it produces wines with fresh aromas of lemon, citrus, and white-skin peach, high acidity (due to the soil's lack of potassium), and develops minerality and nutty aromas with bottle aging.
Green Harvest
Green harvest is a vineyard practice where approximately half of the grape clusters are cut from the vines about 20 days before the main harvest. This technique is used to manage yield for the primary wine (e.g., dry red) and the cut clusters can be used to produce other wines, such as rosé.
6 Questions Answered
Santorini's vineyards have been in continuous production for more than 3,000 years, making it one of the oldest vineyards in the world.
The distinctiveness comes from the volcanic soil (ash, sand, pumi stones) which prevents phylloxera, and the Assyrtiko grape's ability to produce wines with extreme flavors, high acidity (due to low potassium in the soil), and fresh aromas despite the hot climate.
The pressing stage is considered the most fragile, as the quality of the juice is directly related to how lightly the grapes are pressed; less pressure yields better quality juice.
The winemaker's philosophy is constant experimentation, exploring different approaches such as varying fermentation and aging methods (e.g., stainless steel vs. new French oak barrels) to create diverse expressions of the same grape varieties.
No, the land is unorganic due to its volcanic soil, which naturally protects against pests. They might use copper or sulfites in very low percentages if needed for mildew, but pesticides are unnecessary.
Tourists should be encouraged to explore the island's wine region, as it offers a unique and significant aspect of Santorini's culture and history.
12 Actionable Insights
1. Explore Santorini’s Wine Region
Make an effort to explore Santorini’s wine region, not just the caldera and sunset, to fully appreciate the island’s offerings.
2. Taste Vinsanto Wine
When visiting Santorini, ensure you try Vinsanto, as it is highly recommended and considered one of the best dessert wines produced globally.
3. Visit Domaine Segalis Vineyard
Visit the Domaine Segalis vineyard in Santorini to experience their distinct wines; consider asking for a glass of your favorite.
4. Prioritize Quality Over Quantity
In production, prioritize quality over quantity, as demonstrated by Domaine Segalis’s winemaking approach, aiming for excellence rather than high volume.
5. Minimize Grape Pressing
During winemaking, press grapes as little as possible to ensure the highest quality juice is extracted.
6. Age Assyrtiko Wine
Allow Assyrtiko wine to age for at least one year in the bottle to achieve balance, with potential for up to seven years of aging for enhanced complexity.
7. Pair Wine with Local Food
At Domaine Segalis, enhance your wine tasting experience by opting for the food pairing at their restaurant, which features local, in-season products.
8. Implement Green Harvest
For winemakers, perform a green harvest by cutting approximately half of the Mavro-Tragano grape clusters 20 days before harvest for dry red wine, and use these cut clusters to produce rosé wine.
9. Use Sulfites Sparingly
In winemaking, use copper or sulfites in very low percentages and only when absolutely necessary to prevent mildew or oedium, leveraging the volcanic soil’s natural resistance.
10. Email for Off-Season Winery Visits
If planning to visit Domaine Segalis in January or February, send an email in advance to confirm opening hours, as these are typically slower months.
11. Access Podcast Show Notes
To find show notes or information on getting a transcript for The Knowledge Project podcast, visit farnamstreetblog.com/podcast.
12. Subscribe to Farnam Street Newsletter
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5 Key Quotes
We are talking about a continuous vineyard for more than 3,000 years.
Panayiota Kalogeropoulou
It's the oldest, it's one of the oldest vineyards all over the world.
Panayiota Kalogeropoulou
For me, the uniqueness of Assyrtiko is the extreme flavors and the extreme potential for the wine.
Panayiota Kalogeropoulou
Volcano saved us.
Panayiota Kalogeropoulou
To explore the wine region, not only the caldera and the sunset of Santorini.
Panayiota Kalogeropoulou
3 Protocols
Traditional Nikteri Wine Production
Panayiota Kalogeropoulou- Leave grapes (primarily Assyrtiko) on the vine for 20 days to one month after natural ripening to achieve late harvest.
- Gather and press the grapes by feet at night.
- Ferment and age the wine in old oak barrels.
- Seal the barrels with cement, leaving a blank space, and do not top them up.
- Allow the wine to remain in the barrels for at least three to five years, potentially undergoing refermentation.
Domaine Sigalas Nikteri Wine Production (Modern)
Panayiota Kalogeropoulou- Use 100% Assyrtiko grapes that have been late harvested, allowing them to remain on the vine for sugar concentration and water evaporation.
- Extract the best quality free-run juice (without foot pressing, but achieving similar quality).
- Age the wine for at least 30 to 36 months in old oak barrels.
- Top up the barrels regularly, unlike the traditional method, due to cellar climate conditions.
Domaine Sigalas Rosé Wine Production
Panayiota Kalogeropoulou- Perform a green harvest on Mavro-Tragano grapes, cutting approximately half of the clusters.
- Conduct this green harvest 20 days before the main harvest intended for the dry red wine.
- Use the cut clusters to produce the rosé wine.